To make this fruity and concentrated Maquis Lien 2003, winemakers Ricardo Rivadeneira Hurtado and Alejandro Jofre have developed vines that bear no more than 12 bunches of grapes per vine. Only the ripest grapes are picked, then sorted by hand at the winery. The Lien is barrel aged for 12 months in French oak. In Chile's native Mapuche language, lien means 'silver metal'-a reference to colonial Spanish coins that were once melted to make fine jewelry, like the lizard on the Maquis label. "The Maquis Lien calls itself a hand-crafted Chilean `super wine'. It is indeed an intriguing mix of 55 per cent syrah, 27 per cent carmenere, 10 per cent petit verdot and eight per cent malbec. The Hurtado Vicuna family have owned their Maquis vineyard for over 100 years but only decided 10 years ago to make their own wine from these terrific Colchagua Valley grapes. Only the ripest are used for this super-concentrated blend. Fewer than 2,000 cases were made. It is 10.25 a bottle. Sweet, supple, it is a total treat. Chile in a glass."Neil Sowerby MEN